”My name is Hiwot” - Hiwot Adilow
I was told once, that Absynia was not a good name for my company. It would be hard to pronounce and people wouldn’t “get it”.” Absynia” is a shortened spelling of “Abyssinia” the original name of Ethiopia. I’d already had to do a name change, did I really want to do another?
I named it Absynia anyway.
When I was first naming my company I thought about a few names before first coming up with Nubia. Before I knew it was a “conscious Black” cliche, I knew it as one of the empires that sprung up in Ethiopia, the country whose flag has been as present in my life as the man whose face is often emblazoned on it, Haile Selassie. I thought about how Ethiopia and Rastafarianism with long embracing arms, touched my father and changed him. How he began to learn about himself and his people, about self-love when bleaching cream, eschewing Africa and hair relaxers were in vogue. We are Maroons from Jamaica, of mixed, mostly West African lineage but Ethiopia was where, for my family, our realization of self started. And moving forward with my company, how, how could I not honor that?
Why shop small?
When I first started making jewelry, I did so out of necessity. I was buying $4 earrings and $5 necklaces that would pop, tarnish and have to be re-purposed. One day I had an allergic reaction to a pair of earrings I bought and was grumbling to myself about what a waste of money they were. It hit me then that I had no power in that transaction, that I had no one to complain to, no one to hold responsible. The store policy made sure: ‘NO RETURNS, EXCHANGES OR REFUNDS’. They knew they weren’t selling quality and they didn’t want to hear from me once i found out, either.
A short time later when I began making jewelry to sell, I thought about that experience…And similar ones: Leggings that start to rip after the first wash, that cute party dress which begins to unravel when you tug at that one thread.
As a consumer, I was sick of it. There was no pride in the work, no pride in what the store owners were selling and marketing- just cheaply made products marked up 200% more than what they cost and so much more than they were worth. After re-buying the same hoop earrings, re-buying the same black leggings over and over, I realized the cost of buying cheap was quite high.
When I started my business, I told myself I would operate like I was my customer. I still do. I think to myself, “if I paid $25 for something, what would I want it to come packaged like? how long would I want it to last? How would I want the store owner to treat me?” and that’s how I make my decisions. I take pride in my work, in what my jewelry looks like, what the packaging looks like, how they still look after three years. I take pride in how my customers feel wearing my jewelry and how they feel about the entire transaction.
I love that they know who made their product, where it comes from. In the off chance that something goes wrong, they know exactly who to talk to. I love that.
And I’m not alone in that. I buy small. There is a sense of responsibility these small business owners have to their customer’s that makes me feel cared for. I’m not just another transaction, I am a valued customer. It’s a great feeling. I feel edified knowing my purchase will be of quality and that I’m supporting another small business own.
That is why I shop small.
There are things they will teach you in marketing about “universal appeal”, about branding and about selling an ideal.
In fashion and beauty the goal is often to tell the consumer she is incomplete without, she isn’t good enough if she doesn’t have [product here]. Today I heard about single mother, still in school who felt the need to “step up” by buying Louboutin. The story which was relayed on Twitter just left me feeling disturbed and a bit dirty for being apart of that industry.
Something is wrong when women are made to feel so incomplete that they will lay down money they need for other things to fill a void an industry created for them.
I do not want that for you and I don’t want that for the company I am building.
When I think of my customer, my target market, I see complete individuals: Men and women who so understand themselves and their place in the world that the things they choose to adorn themselves and their homes with are merely expressions of that complete self.
I intend to sell you no dreams, tell you that you need more things to be acceptable, loveable, or beautiful/handsome. You are perfect the way you are. These are just things, just tools of expression. I hope you love them but I hope you love you more.
-Elle
Today is the second day of Kwanzaa and the principle of today is self-determination (kujichagulia).
Kujichagulia is to define yourself, name yourself, create for yourself and speak for yourself.
I don’t consider myself “celebrating” Kwanzaa” and I’m sure many of you aren’t either but I can’t ignore the principles, this one especially. I struggle with this everyday, defining who Elle is beyond labels [most often assigned to you] and economic status.
I am a minority: a Black, immigrant, female and struggle with what people think that means for me and what it means for my business and future. For me kujichagalia is so affirming.
I do have the right to define myself. Name myself. I don’t need politcal or social organizations making me a talking point or a statstic, minimizing the person I am.
I have the right to create for myself: the life I want, the business I want, the person I need to be.
I have the right to speak for myself and challenge the dominant narrative. As a feminist, as a hopeful mother and wife to be, as a designer, as a consumer, as an American, as a Jamaican, as everything I am that compliments and contradicts each other. I can and need to.
I hope today you guys will also take the time to remember who you want you to be, independent of any outside influence.
And incorporate this principle in your everyday life!! No matter your race or feelings towards Kwanzaa, the principles are relevant. Self-determination is a beautiful,beautiful thing.
There is an interesting trend of incorporating traditional ethnic attire and ceremonial items into modern outfits.While some designers are doing it well- ie Serge Mouangue (love his African interpretation of the kimono)- some large companies are using this trend to once again further violate native communities. Companies like Forever21 are making cheap,inaccurate renditions of Aboriginal/ Native designs and I implore you NOT to support it. Instead there are Native or Aboriginal companies that you can purchase from and help make a difference. I personally ADORE the mukluks I found here: http://www.manitobah.ca/authenticity.php I’ll continue posting responsible businesses as I find them. And if you find any please let me know! Happy shopping! Absynia